Each Cook Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.
A Shocking Recognition
This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Charm of Modesty
The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.
The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Rising Above the Titans
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.
The Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Path of Dedication
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
An Recognition for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.